Hi,
I dont write much on here anymore. I write better when im bitter. Lately i’ve been happy.
Today one of my good friends sent me a link to an interview. I just watched it, it blew my mind. Because until now i’ve never heard a story told like this from someone who has died and come back.
It has made me want to write something.
I didn’t stumble across death like Ross Capiccioni did and for that I am grateful, very grateful. But so much of what this guy says I can relate too. I dont think about it much and I dont talk about it much, because it upsets my girl and I dont know if what I remember is real or parts of stories other people told me?… You know when you have heard a story so many times that even though you weren’t there you have painted the picture of it, and now it feels like you were there? No? Well, I am a little strange I guess. I came across death through a massive cardiac arrest. It came not from boozing or fiending or from being unhealthy, it was just a ‘bad luck from birth’ sorta deal. In short, my girl saw me purple, my whole body, face, purple. The medics almost gave up on me, said I was too far gone to bring back. I was choppered to Brisbane, I spent two days wrapped in foil on a bed of ice. My loved ones were told that there is a good chance I wont make it, if I was too live that I would likely be disabled in some form, speech, sight, movement and so on. Fortunately, I did survive and recover and until this moment I hadn’t really given what happened the respect it deserved. I am one of the luckiest people alive, because I am alive. The doctor’s told my mum that the odds of me living and recovering the way I did were about 1 in 50,000.
No idea why I would write this, but there it is. No, Actually, I do know why I wrote it. Ross Capiccioni’s story hit me hard. I guess this is me letting go of a little bit of whatever it i’ve been hanging onto.
Ive always backed the underdog. But today, it is fair to say, the surfing world… nah, fuck that, the Sporting world may never witness another champion like Kelly. I had his posters on my wall almost 20 years ago, to think that the little grommets of today still do is fucking phenomenal. We Salute!
Photo Courtesy of Surfing Magazine
Matt Wilkinson. Bringing it back. San Fransisco. Photo by ASL
Hype shits me.
Jack Robinson is surrounded by it. It’s been sometime since I have heard the hype machine churn as hard as it does when this kids’ name gets dropped. Fortunately for Jack it doesn’t seem to mean a thing to him.
Since working on Creative Destruction I have come across some downright amazing Australian bands. A handful of them are playing at this. More Info here
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